Thursday, December 25, 2008

Packing Up, and Heading Out... Temporarily

Today is Christmas day. Merry Christmas everyone! Just now we are watching 'It's a Wonderful Life'. Today's relaxation is sandwiched in between days filled with packing, cleaning, and saying to good-bye to new friends. Day after tomorrow we will fly out to Australia. I don't know how soon, or how much access we will have to the internet. We just wanted to let you know in case it is a couple weeks before you hear from us.

We are ready and excited to be heading into this next phase - school. Fellow BMW missionary family, the Gibbs, are from Australia. So they hosted all of us, the bush team, at their house this week for an 'Introduction to Australia' night. They shared with us some of Australia's songs, food, and vocabulary. In the picture to the right the kids are coloring pictures after talking about Australia's flag. As we learn about Australia we have come to realize that although Australians speak English it is not nearly as close to 'American English' as we thought. It is another language. And I am sure that we are bound to be the brunt of many jokes as we familiarize ourselves with this new language.

We have updated our contact information on this blog with our address in Australia. For now the school will be receiving mail for us. We will find out when we get there if we will be getting a personal address, but for now the school's is the one to use.

Even though our time in Vanuatu is up, for now, there is still a lot we haven't shared with you yet. So, over the next few months, as we get time in between our studies, we will continue to post stories, pictures, and videos for you to see. We have learned so much during our time here. We certainly have more insight than we came here with, however, we are far from understanding. There is so much to learn and we are just getting started!

Please continue to pray with us for the salvation of the people to Lord is sending us to, and that this ministry will bear much fruit for His glory, in the years to come. Thank you for praying with us.

Merry Christmas & Happy New Year,
From all of us, to all of you


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A Vanuatu Christmas Tradition

*There is a link to a video clip at the bottom of the page*

I wonder what thought would cross your mind if on Christmas Eve, or any day for that matter, you looked out your bedroom window and saw two club wielding men burst through your hedge and begin to run wildly through your yard. If you are anything like me, you might be a tad startled. What it was turned out to be a great opportunity to learn a little more about the culture of Vanuatu. Read on...

Yes, Christmas here in Vanuatu has taken a bit of adjusting for our family. We are having fun with it... we are starting new family traditions, like beach towels instead of stockings. And we are holding on to some traditions, like brunch on Christmas morning. We don't bake Christmas cookies. None of us could bring ourselves to do it in the heat.

Christmas is celebrated by the locals here in Port Vila.There are similarities and differences. It is a time for family to come together and for giving of gifts. The big store in town has been having a special event for the last week. Part of the parking lot has been set aside for selling and wrapping 'Christmas Floaties' (inflatable inner tubes, whales, and other toys for playing in the water). And, of course, there is a feast. As it turned out, we got to witness a little of what takes place before the feast... the running of the pig.

At the sight of the men in the back yard, I ran to get Jim. These guys were chasing something. I thought at first it was a dog... maybe someone's rubbish can got raided and they weren't too happy and were seeking to teach the culprit a lesson. Who knew? I got a better glimpse of the 'dog' and it turned out not to be a dog at all. It was a pig. By this time the pig, with the men in hot pursuit, had made a few laps around the house desperately looking for some escape. There were probably 12 or 15 guys in the chase, all shouting in their mother tongue (no Bislama this time), and trying to get the pig cornered.

I wasn't expecting what we saw next. I dont know, up to this point I thought maybe the pig had just got away and they were trying to catch it. But then, what were the clubs for? Let's just say they put the clubs to use. After the excitement was over and they were hauling off their kill, they told us the pig was for a feast. We wished them a Merry Christmas and they went on their way.

Later we asked a friend about it. He told Jim that in the Bush, the young men run pig through the forest for the hunt. But here in Vila they cant do that. They have to purchase a pig and then intentionally let it go so they can hunt it. And since there is no forest for it to run through, it runs through people's yards and they chase it. It is a tradition.

We dont have still pictures, but we did get a short video. I am not going to post it here because it is a tad graphic. But here is the link...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PJzfC2y4TPY


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Tuesday, December 9, 2008

Ministry and Ministry Opportunity on Tanna

Spending time in Port Vila acquiring the Bislama language and Melanesian culture thus far has been well worth it. During this time, we have also been blessed to make acquaintances with other missionaries working on various projects both here in Vila and on the other islands. One thing we have come to realize is the amount of work there is to be done here. One of the relationships we have come to cherish is that of two Wycliffe translators doing work on the island of Tanna. One of the families stationed there has served here in Vanuatu for a full term of four years and only recently returned from a one-year furlough in the States. Upon returning, with much needed supplies and funding from his supporters for a sorely needed new truck, he and his family were unfortunately met with one major problem. The ONLY ship capable of transporting his supplies to the island was broke! Ultimately, they wound up stuck in Port Vila for over six months waiting for repairs on the ship to be completed. We wound up using this time to become better acquainted.

After months of being told the ship would be fixed “tomorrow”, by the men working on the ship, the day finally came for them to ship out. (Melanesian cultural insight: When asked a direct question, a Melanesian will often answer with what he/she feels you WANT to hear – rather than “disappoint” you with the truth. This is sometimes hard to gauge and deal with, sometimes resulting in what we would consider a “bold faced lie”, but is simply an aspect of their culture that we are continuing to familiarize ourselves with. In an attempt to circumvent this we have learned how to better ask questions they can easily answer on their terms without having to disappoint us or bring shame on them.) We, Houghton, Brad, and myself, assisted this family by traveling to their island station on Tanna to help prepare the house for the wife and children, who would arrive a few days after us. Imagine how much work had to be done after 18 months away.

Upon arrival, we began a quick clean up of floors, counters, chairs, and bedding. The village women had already come through and done a general cleaning of the cobwebs, windows, and floors, so our work was made much easier by this kindness. That night we all sat on his front porch in the darkness of the island (no lights or electricity here) and reveled at the stars in the Southern sky and the persistent rumbling of the Mt. Yasur volcano in the distance. Occasionally the mountain would send up a shower of molten lava visible in the clear night sky followed six seconds later by a deep rumbling as the sound waves from the eruption made their way to their expectant audience.

The following day we spent our time digging holes, mixing cement, and various other chores necessary to bring the house into better repair. During the family’s time away, there had been a relatively large earthquake (4.0-6.0 earthquakes are a weekly occurrence here) that collapsed the septic tank and broke panes of window glass. Once our work for the day was completed, Ken took us to see the volcano up close. This is an experience I will never forget - the smell of sulfur, the constant spewing of molten lava from one of the four vents in the crater, the charred and decimated landscape with scattered steam vents hissing out poisonous gases from deep within the earth. It was absolutely amazing. At one point, the volcano erupted sending chunks of molten hot lava careening over our heads landing behind us. That was when we decided to head home for the evening…quickly. (It takes a long time to load video, however, sometime over the next week or so I hope to load a video clip so you can see what I am talking about.)

Our time with Ken and Eric, the two translators for Wycliffe (SIL) on Tanna, was mutually beneficial. We assisted them with chores that would be too much for just them, and they assisted us by allowing us to document their homes, living conditions, habits, and interaction with the locals. What an opportunity to peer into our future lives. We were able to document first-hand the roads, the way they set up water recovery systems, toilets, electrical systems, and what materials were used to build their houses. Among the many valuable insights we gained was the need for woven mats to cover any concrete walls. These are not just decorative, but essential to protect the concrete from being destroyed by flying coconuts during the oft experienced hurricanes!

Also during our time there, we were also able to spend time with local men just hanging out in their Nakamal’s. On Tanna, kastom runs very deep and is very much a part of their religious makeup as it affects Christianity through both outright rejection and, at best, syncretism. The colorful stories they share give excellent insight into their worldview. I must work diligently not to make assumptions or rash decisions regarding their culture and the way they see the world, because the more I learn, the more I am able to understand them and the deeper the connections become, laying the groundwork for the future and earning the right to be heard. How exciting it is to be learning! Our trip to Tanna solidified my observation that each island is a culture unto itself, and even within an island, the tribes and villages can exhibit this same tendency.

The opportunities we explored during the short time we spent on Tanna were twofold, 1) assess the viability of a new work in the “Middle Bush” area of central Tanna and 2) assess the viability of continuing the ministry using the translations now being done by the resident translators. We are not disregarding north Ambrym, on the contrary, the opportunity for work there is very promising. Our intention, again, is to spend this three months in information gathering mode – recon, if you will. Our families and supporters are making a huge investment in this work in terms of lives, labor, finances, and prayer. Please continue to pray with us for the Lord’s clear leading to where we are most needed, and can be the most effective.


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Tuesday, December 2, 2008

Making Simboro, the poll, and other stuff...

Hello there,
I was going to write a post about the day we spent with friends playing cards and making 'simboro', however, Laura beat me to it and she did a great job at it so, here is the link...
http://psalm96three.blogspot.com/2008/11/simboro.html

More news...
Jim and the guys arrived home from Tanna today. I just wanted to let you know that he is back, safe and sound. You will have to wait for his news about the trip until he writes it up for you.

And... it had been a while wince we updated some of the other pages on this blog so I spent some time the other day getting them freshened up. So, if you are one that likes to look at the other stuff but haven't checked it in a while because there was nothing new, feel free to explore. There is nothing ground shaking, but there is the new address for us in Australia, and prayer updates, etc.

Take a minute to vote on the poll to the right. It takes a good chunk of time to keep this blog updated, and we love keeping you guys 'posted', so we want to figure out the ideal posting frequency. How often is often enough? And how often is too often? Also if there is other stuff you would like to see here, or if you have anything you are wondering about, leave a comment or drop us an email. Everyone loves to get mail!

We will catch you later,
Tania


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Sunday, November 30, 2008

mifala i mekem laplap



Grace, Gretchen and I went to our friend Winnie's home to learn how to make Vanuatu's staple food - laplap. Laplap is made from taro, manioc, yam, wild yam, or banana which is ground to a mush and wrapped in island cabbage, add some coconut milk, and some kind of meat if you have it. Then wrap it all up in some laplap leaves and cook it on a special fire and voila, you have laplap. On this particular day we were making laplap after the fashion of the island of Tangoa. Here are a few pictures for you to get a better idea...

Here I am 'graonum' the wild yam the guys brought back with them from Ambrym. Our friend, Winnie, had specially requested them to bring some for her so this is what we used to make the laplap...


this is what the yam looks like when I am done with it... yum =)


Here Winnie, Grace, and I are building the laplap fire. You lay a bed of stones, build the fire evenly across the top of them and then add another layer of stones. After the fire burns down, the stones are heated.
They sure got a kick out of my attemp to split wood for the fire (sorry, no picture). Now, I am a country girl... I've split firewood before. They just do it a little different here. Lets just say I wasn't graceful, but niether did I chop off my leg - which is a good thing because we were a good half mile or so from any road. Winnie kept cautioning me to be carefull. I told her I would be fine... if I chopped my leg she could just carry be to the road... and she thought that was hilarious.


the wood is arranged in just the right way...


Grace and Beverly prepare the island cabbage...


The laplap is prepared on a bed of giant laplap leaves (like banana leaves). First goes a layer of island cabbage. Then the ground yam is spread out until it is about an inch thick, then more island cabbage and some sliced onions and salt went on top. After that the edges of the whole thing are folded over to make something like a big square pie. In this case, chicken wings were then arranged on top of that, and then Winnie squeezed a bunch of coconut milk over everything...


(the cheapest form of chicken at about $2 per pound)


When the laplap was assembled and the fire stones were hot Winnie's sisters, Jen and Margaret, carried the laplap bundle to the fire area and placed it on top of the hot stones. It was then covered with the second layer of hot stones. After that, we covered the entire thing with these huge laplap leaves (like banana leaves), and then covered the heap with a canvas tarp.


Two hours later...
It is finished cooking. We removed the tarp and leaves covering our lunch and we use the tongs made from wood to remove the still hot stones from on top of the bundle of food...


Come and get it!
It is now time to enjoy the fruits of our labor.
"With our fingers?!" Gracie says!
"Yes dear, with your fingers."





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Thursday, November 27, 2008

Ambrym - Part 2

Continued from "Ambrym - Part 1"

(scroll down to read Part 1 first if you haven't already)


"...he thanked God for delivering us to them,
as we were an answer to their prayers."



Wednessday

We all slept in quite a bit the next morning, considering our usual up with the sun routine, so we went to breakfast around 7am. Breakfast consisted of bread, baked in earth ovens the night before, and tea. After breakfast, we went on a tour of the village with Benjamin, who would later prove to be our tour guide on many of the excursions we were to go on. After showing us around the village of Ranbwe, we departed for a short hike to the two other neighboring villages of Fanrero and Fanla. The hike took us back down the hill through Ranon to a small two-track road that runs roughly North along the cost to the rest of the villages in the language group of North Ambrym. We followed this road a short distance to a small trail that began a steep climb up a hill and wound its way to the interior.

Along the way, we stopped to admire a woodcarver working on Tam-Tams – large totem-like carvings from the trunks of palm trees or large tree ferns. They are usually set up near Nakamal’s or Nasara’s and, from what we were able to gather, are used primarily as a means of communication. A sort of Stone Age telegraph if you will. The woodcarvings can have anywhere from one to twelve faces on them and are passed on through a complex process of both family lineage and payment. A man from the family with the rights to a certain process/design can purchase the rights to it, but no one outside the family is allowed to purchase it. There are many things like this as the tribal life revolves around familial and interfamilial relationships. We look forward to further developing our understanding of these intricate relationships as we continue to learn the language and culture.

We also managed to (just as a major downpour began) spend some time checking out the local aid station. It is a small concrete building built on undisputed land and is re-supplied every two months. Very basic in its supply, the dispensary is manned only by a local woman who has had some training as a nurse. Continuing up the hill, we finally reached Fanrero after about 20 minutes of hiking. It is a beautiful village situated on a hilltop with scattered views of the Pacific Ocean intermittently observable through small openings in the thick jungle canopy. We sat on a makeshift bench to “storian” with a couple of grey-bearded old men under the shade of a banyan tree. After a bit of a rest we continued up the hill to Fanla, a quick 5 or so minute trip.

Fanla is a kastom village with roughly 100 or so inhabitants. They have an active Nasara and a traditional Nakamal. They embrace tradition above western ways and live very simply. According to the people we spoke to, they are one of the few truly kastom villages left in the area. We are as anxious to learn more about the village, as we are their kastom beliefs. Kastom is a rough and complex mixture of animistic religion, magic, language, arts, law, and economics. After a brief tour of the village, we returned to Ranbwe for the evening.

Not having had much chance to talk to our families, or have any quiet time to ourselves, we wandered down to the black-sand beach for some quiet time and the opportunity to make phone calls. Almost to the beach, we noticed children playing with their teacher during a break. They are so curious when we take their pictures to see what we have captured.

Thursday


Today we talked with a variety of people from the village. After having some small conversation with everyone over breakfast, we moved into the bush kitchen and continued our conversations while helping them peel Kumala and Taro. We were soon informed that the leadership had set aside time for us to speak before the council the following afternoon in order to more specifically address the reasons for our visit. What an awesome opportunity. We set aside time to discuss before the meeting how we were going to address them so there would be as little miscommunication as possible. After discussing the details of the presentation amongst ourselves, we returned to visiting with the men in the village.

As we sat chatting, some of the questions we were asked blew me away. They asked about our upcoming presidential election, about the war in Iraq, the monetary crisis, and a few other – more seemingly benign – questions. They had heard of these things over the radio and their knowledge was basic at best, but their interest in these topics surprised me.

The people here tend to be curious about who we are and where we come from and they love pictures. As it turned out, the only picture I had (tucked away in my personal journal) was of a Mule Deer buck I got during one of my last hunting seasons out in Montana, and they loved it. We talked about deer and elk and many of the other animals found in North America. The conversation naturally turned to guns, and bows and arrows. A great afternoon of “storian” increased my Bislama language capabilities immensely. I must admit however, after speaking so much Bislama, my head hurt and I actually felt physically ill – a feeling we all experienced during extended time immersed in Bislama and the local vernaculars.

After lunch, we made our way down to the meeting to formally present our vision for ministry. When we began, there were only a handful of people in the room. At first, it seemed that no one was interested in what we had to say. Within minutes of beginning the meeting, not only had all the leadership and many of the village men packed in for the talk, but many more were gathered around outside, peering into the windows eager to hear.

Houghton, having the best grasp of the trade language thus far, was chosen to give the talk. This presentation was recorded and will be transcribed into Team Minutes for future reference. After the talk, a question and answer period indicated a high level of understanding as to our motives and reasons for being there. After all questions were done, a pastor for the Presbyterian Church in the village offered a prayer. In it, he thanked God for delivering us to them, as we were an answer to their prayers. It is one thing to pray and ask God to prepare people's hearts and minds and to prepare the way for us so that His will would be clearly seen, it is another thing altogether to see it manifest itself right before you and in such a clear and astounding way.

The presentation resulted in the creation of a committee, which is to include leadership from all villages, and churches present on the island within the language group, regardless of denomination. The committee is to prepare for us by finding undisputed land for housing and gardens.

Friday


We had prepared to visit some of the villages further north on the island. These were to include the larger villages of Megham, Olal, Wilit, and the smaller ones in between. We loaded up on a small boat with a few others and began the short boat ride north. We stopped only once to drop off two women at a small beachside village before arriving at our stop in Megham. We helped unload some cargo for one of the men and helped him carry it up a small winding path to his home. He helped us by soliciting for a truck transport that would carry us further north on the small two-track road to the villages we wished to survey.

While we were waiting for the truck to come, we took the opportunity to browse and take mental inventory of the shop that was there in Megham. Very basic items were available for purchase here. We ourselves bought a couple of pens and a package of crackers. It was noteworthy that, here, as in many other places, rice prices were extremely high, and as a result, not much was being stocked. They did inform us however, that we could order whatever we wanted through them and they could have it shipped with their normal store order and we could pick it up there. That is probably very similar to how mail will work in the future as well.

When the truck finally showed up, we agreed with the driver on a price for the day and hopped the tailgate into the back. Riding in the back of a truck on the outer islands can be fun, but also very dangerous. You must keep a vigil watch for low-hanging branches, as they are a very real danger. Whenever you want to stop, for whatever reason, you simply slap the side of the truck loudly and the driver will pull over. We were his only fare for the day so he was more than happy to oblige.

I was impressed simply by the fact that they even had a road. We were informed that they have two trucks that use this road and they are mainly used to haul copra to the beaches for ships such as the MV Brisk to pick up. Having only two trucks on the road has kept it in fairly good condition. A few rough spots required us to put the truck in 4WD, in addition to one part of the road far to the north that had essentially washed out. This washout virtually cut the small, remote village of Wilit off from anything other than foot traffic.

We meandered our way through coconut plantations, along stretches of beach, and small villages dotting the coastline. Under the South Pacific sun, we drove north as far as the well-used Toyota could take us. We then walked the rest of the way to Wilit. A very quiet village of maybe 200 people with only a rudimentary water system (one or two community rain catchments), Wilit is located on a hill with views of the water far below, broken as it is, through the trees. Beyond this destitute settlement, there is one last village further on, accessible only by a small footpath in excessively tough terrain, named Konkon.

Having stopped and spent a small amount of time in the small village of Olal, we found that it has a decidedly catholic flavor with a large cathedral, built overlooking the island of Pentecost some time ago, that looks completely out of place – this having nothing to do with its run-down state of appearance. They currently run a small school that teaches in French, and are petitioning for funds to help maintain the buildings.

We made our way back to Megham where we met with the son of a man who published a hymnal in some of the native dialects. We were hoping to get some information on how he had collected these works and possibly procure any notes he may have had. However, it is unfortunate that his father, the man who wrote the book, had just died only a few weeks prior. We passed his freshly adorned gravesite on our way down to the shore to catch the boat for our return trip to Ranon.

Saturday

(We are going to leave Saturday's adventure for a separate post, coming soon!)

Sunday


God has intended this day for rest, and on this occasion especially – we were in no condition to argue the point. We had exhausted ourselves with trips, survey work, and – not the least of which – language acquisition. It has astounded me the amount of physical fatigue sets in when one simply sits and listens to an unfamiliar language. The time on Ambrym had improved my Bislama immensely to be sure, but listening to Bislama and their native language at times made me feel ill to my stomach because of the intellectual strain.

We attended a village church, the experience only solidifying in our minds their need for teaching and understanding of God's word.


Monday

The time for our departure had arrived. We needed to make our way from the Northern parts of Ambrym to the South where the airstrip is located. We would be flying back to Efate (home). We chartered a boat to take us south along the west coast of Ambrym to Craig Cove in anticipation for our flight out the following morning. Phillip accompanied us on this leg of our journey as well. What a friend. It was pouring down rain as we left Ranon behind us. Great grey clouds threatened to drench us as we made our way down the coast, but to me, the rain was a Godsend. Being wet is an unpleasant fact in the tropics, so if I were to choose, I would choose to be drenched by a rainy, cloud-filled sky, than by sweat under a relentless sun any day.

On our trip down the coast we stopped only twice before our final destination. The first was at a hot spring near where we had all our fun the previous Saturday. The hot spring was just that – HOT! We could barely put our feet into the water without flinching. This hot spring was more than just a hot spring- it was a river. It was a refreshing stop on a cloudy rain-soaked day. The locals will actually use this simmering river to cook bananas and other snacks to go. The second place we stopped was a place called Lake Lonwolwol. This is a freshwater lake that used to be a large village with a hospital. All were lost however in 1913 when the volcano erupted and molten lava changed the landscape and created a large lake where men had once lived.

Shortly after this stop, we arrived in Craig Cove and found lodging at Sam’s Bungalow’s for a mere 1500 vat for the nights rest and food. It is a very nice place with simple amenities. When we arrived, it was just prior to the lunch hour so we dropped our bags in our room, and sat and visited for a bit. We ate lunch and were introduced to the other guests staying there. A couple from Germany had just returned from a trek to the volcano. We were all extremely tired, and a couple of us were not feeling well, so we turned in for the afternoon and slept. I awoke just prior to dinner; in time to experience, what I would later find out was a 5.3 earthquake.

Tuesday

Finally, the day of our departure had dawned. We were excited to get back home to our wives and children. Though we had only been gone a week, time on the islands seems to slow down quite a bit so it seemed much longer. Throwing our packs over our backs and hiking down the road to the terminal was refreshing. We checked our bags, paid our departure tax, and waited for our plane to arrive.

The runway had once been paved, probably in WWII. Now it was little more than a grass airstrip. Hanging around the terminal were people from a nearby village. They weren’t waiting on anything in particular, that just seemed to be the place to hang out. We found out that we were the topic of the latest rumors of goings on for this little island ...and so the 'kava-vine' goes.


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Since returning from this trip, we have been in contact with Phillip. The committee has been set up and is discussing and working towards what it will take for us to establish ministry in North Ambrym, that is if that is the Lord's will. Thank you for praying with us, and please continue to pray. Another survey trip is coming up. The plan from the beginning was to visit several areas of Vanuatu in search for where we would be most effective in the Lord's work, seeking out the place that He has prepared for us to serve. So off on another survey it is. We (the guys) leave tomorrow. So very soon we will have more to share with you. In the mean time, keep checking in. We have a ton more stuff to share with you here on the blog we just want to make sure you are getting a chance to see it all before we add more, we dont want to overload you. Let us know you've been here. We love to hear from you guys!

God bless, and Happy Thanksgiving!

Jim, Tania, Grace, and Josh



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